Travel
My Leh Ladakh Travel Experience A Travelog & Practical Guide
Exoticamper
23 Sep 2025High-altitude desert, Martian landscapes, a sky made for stargazing, and the dream of riding a bike through the Himalayas that’s pretty much all I knew about Ladakh when I booked this August trip. Leh is situated in the Himalayas, making it a unique destination for travelers. Everyone warned me about altitude sickness. Usually, road trips via Manali–Leh or Srinagar–Leh let your body acclimatize slowly. I did the exact opposite: flew straight into Leh. And that changes everything.
Leh is both a city and the main town in Ladakh, serving as the central hub for visitors exploring the region.
Introduction to Leh Ladakh
Nestled high in the northern reaches of India, Leh Ladakh is a land where adventure meets serenity. Located in the heart of the Himalayas, this region is famed for its dramatic valleys, ancient monasteries, and a culture that feels like a bridge between India and Tibet. Often called “Little Tibet,” Ladakh enchants travelers with its stark beauty think endless stretches of rugged mountains, crystal-clear lakes, and villages that seem untouched by time.
If you’re searching for a truly memorable Ladakh trip, you’ll find no shortage of wonders here. From the shimmering blue waters of Pangong Lake to the sand dunes of Nubra Valley and the dizzying heights of Chang La pass, every corner of Ladakh promises a new adventure. There are a number of Leh Ladakh tour packages designed to help you explore this unique region, whether you’re after high-altitude thrills, spiritual retreats, or simply a chance to disconnect and soak in the silence. With its blend of Indian and Tibetan influences, Ladakh is more than just a destination it’s an experience that stays with you long after your trip ends.
Planning a Ladakh Trip
A successful Ladakh trip starts with thoughtful planning. The region’s remote location and high altitude mean that timing, accommodation, and itinerary choices can make all the difference. Most travelers aim to visit between April and October, when the weather is pleasant, the skies are clear, and the famous lakes and valleys are accessible. During these months, you can witness the vibrant colors of Pangong Lake, explore the lush beauty of Nubra Valley, and enjoy panoramic views from high passes like Chang La or that's what we thought. Given the harsh terrain we are always at the mercy of mother nature.
Ladhak is usually dry & gets very minimal rainfall. We went in August'25 & as luck would have it; it rained quite a bit. Infact the year brought historic rainfall to Ladhak forcing Airport closures, landslide and early snowfall in Khardungla Pass. We narrowly escaped bad weather by just flying out in time and the airport remained shut for close to 4 day after we finished the trip and left.
There’s a wide range of Ladakh tour packages to suit every style and budget from backpacker-friendly guest houses to luxury camps overlooking the lake. Many packages include must-see attractions such as the peaceful Shanti Stupa, the historic Leh Palace, and the moving Hall of Fame museum. Whether you’re planning a solo adventure or a group getaway, booking your accommodation and activities in advance ensures a smoother, more enjoyable journey. With the right package, you can focus on soaking up the sights and sounds of Leh, exploring ancient monasteries, and making the most of every moment in this extraordinary valley.
We chose to go hybrid. We took Exoticamp's support in booking hotels, bikes, permits etc. and took care of the rest ourselves. That decision though gave us flexibility in terms of playing around with our itinerary but proved to be expensive.
Exoticamp's full package: https://www.exoticamp.com/trips/leh-ladakh-nubra-valley-tour?search=leh&type=trips
Preparing for the Journey
Getting ready for a Ladakh trip is about more than just packing your bags it’s about preparing your body and mind for the adventure ahead. The entire region sits at a high altitude, so it’s wise to spend a couple of days in Leh to acclimatize before heading out to explore Ladakh’s more remote corners. Bring plenty of warm layers, sunscreen, and any medications you might need.
Chennai to Leh – The Flight Hack
I flew Chennai → Delhi → Leh. Among India’s big metros, Leh has direct flights only from Delhi and Mumbai. While choosing seats, I did a quick ChatGPT search and found the winning tip: take a left-side window seat just behind the wing (A-side) on Delhi → Leh for the best mountain panoramas. On the return, F-side wins.
It worked. About an hour into the flight, the Himalayas started playing peekaboo through clouds. Because of a landing delay we circled Leh, and I got a bonus: aerial glimpses of the turquoise Tso Moriri. Also, Leh’s landing is wild a near 360° turn around a mountain, then a quick descent onto the runway. Heart-thumping stuff. Leh sits at an altitude of about 11,500 ft, which is over 3,500 meters above sea level, making the sudden change from lowland cities even more dramatic.
First Impressions of Leh
The moment I stepped out, it felt like another planet. Towering brown mountains that shift color with sunlight, snow peaks far away, the crispest air. Also, the altitude (≈11,500 ft) makes its presence felt: light-headed, a little breathless even while waiting for baggage. Leh is the main town in Ladakh, serving as the entry point and center for local activity.
We checked into Hotel Khardongla, situated about 15 minutes from the airport and a short walk to the town center at Leh Market. The terrace looks straight at Leh Palace. 24×7 hot water and, somehow, South Indian dosas on the menu. Comfort food at 11,500 ft was a pleasant shock.
Day 1 – Rest & AMS Reality
We took it slow: litres of water, naps, and in the evening, a short stroll to Leh Market. That’s when AMS hit throbbing headache, mild nausea, breathlessness on small slopes. We tried the famous softy cones, then ducked into Bodhisattva German Bakery for hot tomato soup and a cheese bun. Back in the room, windows cracked for fresh air, a Dolo later; sleep. We skipped Diamox after mixed advice and stuck to hydration and rest.
AMS basics that helped us:
Day 1 = rest day; hydrate 4–5 litres. Acclimatization is especially important for tourists arriving in Leh, as it helps prevent AMS before exploring higher-altitude areas.
No alcohol/smoking; climb stairs slowly.
Keep paracetamol handy; take Diamox only after a doc’s advice.
Leh Bike Rental Guide (What We Actually Did)
Ladakh is Royal Enfield Himalayan country. You’ll spot 350s and the 411cc — we took the lower-powered one and it handled everything. Helmets are standard; in Leh you can rent jackets, gloves, shoes, GoPros, bungee cords; pretty much anything you forgot. Choosing the right vehicle, such as an SUV, 4x4, or a reliable bike, is essential to explore Ladakh's challenging terrain and mountain passes.
Pro tip: Keep your rental receipt handy; checkposts outside Leh ask for it. Inner Line Permits are mandatory for Nubra, Pangong, Hanle, Tso Moriri. Exoticamp handled our permits and even had bikes/gear delivered to our hotel; huge stress off our shoulders. They also offer camp options for overnight stays in scenic locations, perfect for adventure travelers looking to experience Ladakh's landscapes up close.
Connectivity: Only postpaid SIMs work. We had Airtel postpaid; rock solid almost everywhere. UPI worked across Ladakh; in patchy spots, shopkeepers shared Wi-Fi so we could pay.
Day 2 – Bikes, Sangam & Local Leh
We woke up fresh, grabbed our Himalayans, rented gear, topped up ₹500 fuel, and rolled out:
Route: Leh → Sangam (Indus–Zanskar) → Magnetic Hill → Gurudwara Pathar Sahib → Spituk Monastery → Shanti Stupa → back to Leh.
Sangam: Usually a meeting of blue Indus with muddy Zanskar; heavy rains had both running brown, but it was still stunning. At the rafting desk, we checked routes: 6 km Tsogsti (₹900), 14 km Scorpochey (₹1,800), 28 km Chilling (₹2,600) with grades from I to IV+. May–Sept is prime season.
Magnetic Hill: That classic optical illusion spot, bikers and reels everywhere. The Magnetic Hill appears to defy gravity, where vehicles seem to roll uphill due to an optical illusion.
Pathar Sahib Gurudwara: Army-maintained, spotless, and warm. We had free langar; rotis, dal, sabzi, a chana-sweet plus tea and a quiet rest in the hall.
Spituk Monastery: Small, peaceful, with a tiny café next door and a killer view of Leh Airport; morning flights shoot straight at mountains and bank sharply. Spituk (11th century, Gelugpa) houses old masks, thangkas, and idols; it’s a great half-day alternative to the bigger gompas. Spituk Monastery, located about 18 km from Leh, offers magnificent views of the Indus River.
Shanti Stupa: A symbol of peace and tranquility, Shanti Stupa stands out with its serene white dome. Drizzles nixed our sunset. Still, the balcony café felt Greek; whitewashed, mountain-framed. Inside, monks chanted in the meditation hall; we sat quietly and soaked it in. Back to the hotel for flaky parottas, curry, Kesari bath, and early lights-out. Khardung La awaited.
Day 3 – Leh to Nubra via Khardung La
Route: Leh → South Pullu (permit check) → Khardung La (18,380 ft) → North Pullu → Khalsar → Diskit → Hunder.
We layered up (thermal + tee + fleece + jacket, double gloves). Construction meant off-road stretches, then smooth ghats. BRO deserves a salute; clear signs, speed limits, witty captions (“Be Mr. Late, not Late Mr.”, “Drive on horse power, not rum power”). A couple of landslides slowed us but were cleared quickly.
At Khardung La, it started snowing. AMS fluttered back; we skipped lingering at the yellow signboard and dropped altitude. At North Pullu, we discovered Cafe Cirque; a container café at ~15,000 ft with Maggi, pav bhaji, pizzas, burgers, almond-milk hot chocolate and a terrace with a brook behind. Over hot food we met a Mumbai couple; he Punjabi, she from Salem, TN; a perfect two-states story at a Himalayan café. Khardung La Pass is recognized as the world’s highest all-season motorable road.
Descending into Hunder, the landscape flipped: the Shyok River unfurled, and sand dunes appeared against snow peaks. Nubra Valley sits at an elevation of about 10,000 feet above sea level. Unreal.
Hunder Stays, Café Stops & Stargazing
Hunder has luxury glamps and homestays at dune edges (Wi-Fi, breakfast-dinner packages; prices swing with season/comfort). We paused at Moksha Café for bun-butter-jam and chai, then checked into Nature View Residency; homely, hot water, Wi-Fi, hearty food.
At midnight, we climbed to the terrace with mattresses and blankets, pressed play on spacey Spotify tracks, and watched the Milky Way spill across the sky. Shooting stars, chilly air, a couple of Italians and an English traveler for company; a night that clings to you.
Day 4 – Turtuk & Thang
Route: Hunder → Diskit → Bogdang → Turtuk → Thang → back to Hunder.
Turtuk sits lower than Leh, so air felt kinder. It’s a Balti village that was part of Pakistan till 1971; apricot orchards, wooden homes, and distinct culture set it apart. We tried apricot juice, thukpa, and a simple barley-style porridge. Beautiful, yes; but a bit over-hyped in some blogs. It’s more authentic village than curated destination, and that’s its charm.
Beyond it lies Thang India’s last village, just 2.2 km from PoK. You can see Pakistani posts across the mountains. The Army’s presence is heavy; it feels poignant and proud at once, knowing that brave soldiers are stationed here to guard the border. And in peak Ladakh irony, we found masala dosa here too. Dosa at the edge of India; filed under “things we didn’t expect.” Indian citizens are required to get an Inner Line Permit to visit Nubra Valley since April 1, 2017.
The ride itself was the star: the Shyok swerving beside us, narrow rock corridors, makeshift iron bridges, off-road construction stretches (15 km or so), and BRO teams everywhere. We spotted bunkers, an army runway in the middle of nowhere, and soldiers waving at riders. The Shyok kept changing moods turquoise, sea-green, then glacier-muddy; living up to the “gravel spreader” reputation (its name likely derives from a Tibetan root for gravel).
Back in Hunder, we finally ticked off the Bactrian camel ride and drifted to the quieter dunes beyond the ATV patch. Locals said night stargazing was fine; we ended up too spent and returned to our terrace routine — more shooting stars, more whispered wishes.
We’d planned Hunder → Pangong and an overnight at the lake, but Shyok flooding had cut sections off. The detour would be too long. So we decided: visit Diskit Monastery, return to Leh, then do Pangong as a day-trip.
Day 5 – Diskit & Return to Leh
Route: Hunder → Diskit Monastery → Khalsar → Khardung La → Leh.
Diskit is the oldest and largest monastery in Nubra (14th century, Gelugpa). The 32-m Maitreya Buddha gazes across the valley; the view alone is worth the detour. At lunch in Diskit, we ran into our two-states couple again; hot chocolate, pizzas, cheese toast, the works, plus Insta exchanges.
Crossing Khardung La under clear skies felt easier. Back in Leh, we freshened up and visited the Hall of Fame (army-run, must-visit). The museum is also known as the war museum. At the Army café, we tried steaming idlis. The day ended with souvenir shopping and dinner back at Bodhisattva Restaurant and German Bakery our comfort spot. Pashmina shawls, crafted by local people, were a highlight among the souvenirs, reflecting the region's rich cultural heritage.
Day 6 – Pangong Tso (Merak Side)
Route: Leh → Karu → Sakti → Chang La (17,590 ft) → Durbuk → Tangtse → Pangong (till Merak) → return the same way.
We started at 6:00 AM. Early streams were still icy; Chang La bit into our bones and we dove into a tiny army tea shop for chai and warmth. Past Sakti, there were long stretches with no one around — classic Ladakh isolation.
At Durbuk, we stopped at Aroma Café; a gem. English breakfast, aloo parathas, strong coffee; one of the best meals of the trip. From Tangtse, the road is a smooth ribbon; we cruised at 80–100 km/h. In a marshy patch we spotted black-necked cranes and grazing yaks.
And then Pangong revealed itself. The lake shapeshifts with the sky; turquoise, then cobalt, then silvery under cloud cover. Pangong Tso is situated at a high altitude, about 160 km from Leh, making it a breathtaking destination. During the colder months, Pangong can appear as one of the region's stunning frozen lakes, especially in early spring. September is considered an ideal month to visit Pangong Tso, as the weather is cool, clear, and perfect for exploring. We rode till Merak, parked by the water, and sat in silence. An hour disappeared in a blink. Lunch back in Durbuk at a small Tibetan joint, and by evening, we rolled into Leh; tired, happy, full.
Fuel & Petrol Plan (Exactly What We Did)
Day 2 (Leh local): Added ₹500 in Leh.
Day 3 (Leh → Hunder): Filled full in Leh; topped up in Diskit.
Day 4 (Turtuk/Thang round trip): No refill needed.
Day 5 (Hunder → Leh): Topped full at Diskit before the climb.
Day 6 (Pangong day trip): Same tank lasted round trip; added ₹100 about 20 km before Leh on the way back.
Average fuel cost per head: For a group of four, the total fuel expense came to about ₹~3500 per head for the entire trip. Adjust this based on your group size and vehicle mileage.
Tips: Always tank up in Leh before big routes. Diskit has the only reliable pump in Nubra. After Karu, there’s no pump on the Pangong route. If you’re attempting Hanle/Umling La, carry jerry cans.
The Army & BRO (Why Ladakh Works)
You see them everywhere; and you feel safer because of it. The Indian Army keeps life possible at these altitudes: tea shops at passes, oxygen stations at key points, well-run spaces like Pathar Sahib. The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) literally stitches Ladakh together. Projects Himank and Vijayak carve and maintain impossible roads, clear landslides, put up those cheeky signs, and keep this wild place accessible. Ladakh was formerly part of the larger Jammu & Kashmir state, and its distinction from the broader Kashmir state is important for understanding the region's unique identity and administrative boundaries.
Without them, Ladakh would be a far harder dream to chase.
Expenses: DIY vs Exoticamp (What It Really Cost)
We tracked everything. Per person (shared rooms):
Flights (Chennai ↔ Leh): ~₹25,000
Stay (6 nights split): ~₹7,450
Bike + gear rentals: ~₹6,250
Fuel (all top-ups): ~₹2,050
Permits/entries: ~₹1,000
Food, cafés, souvenirs: ~₹7,650 (includes all major meals and snacks)
Total: ~₹24,500 without flights; ~₹49,000 with flights.
And then there’s the Exoticamp option — a 5D/4N curated Leh + Nubra + Pangong group trip that bundles the heavy lifting:
Airport pickup/drop, 3N Leh + 1N Nubra stays.
Meals from Day 1 lunch → Day 5 breakfast (covers all major meals).
Permits, entries, O₂ cylinders, insurance.
Tour coordinators (multi-lingual), support vehicle, campfire at Nubra.
For bikers: Himalayan 411 + fuel + riding gear included.
Cost: ₹10,800 per person, plus ₹5,000 if solo-riding or ₹2,500 if you’re pillion. When you add flights, the group trip comes in 30–40% lower than what I spent DIY — and you’re not juggling permits, fuel, rentals, or last-minute chaos.
Exoticamp Leh Ladhak: https://www.exoticamp.com/trips/leh-ladakh-nubra-valley-tour?search=leh&type=trips
Final Thoughts
DIY Ladakh is the stuff of stories dosas in India’s last village, dragging mattresses to a homestay terrace to watch the Milky Way, meeting a two-states couple over pizza at 15,000 ft, random Army tea shops saving your fingers from frost. But you do pay; in money, in planning time, and in occasional AMS worries.
If you want the same magic; Nubra dunes, Pangong colors, Khardung La thrills; minus the logistics, the Exoticamp package is the smarter, calmer route. Either way, Ladakh will get under your skin and stay there.
Exoticamp Leh Ladhak: https://www.exoticamp.com/trips/leh-ladakh-nubra-valley-tour?search=leh&type=trips
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